Upper Dolpo, Shey Phoksundo · 29.30° N · 82.95° E

Upper Dolpo

The hidden land behind the Dhaulagiri wall - a three-week camping expedition across 5,000m passes to turquoise Phoksundo Lake, the ancient monastery of Shey, and villages where pre-Buddhist Bon culture still lives. Nepal as it was a century ago.

remoterestrictedcultural21 days5,360 mStrenuous

Begin the ascent

Day 01 · Travel · 150 m

Fly to Nepalgunj

Fly southwest to the steamy Terai city, staging point for Dolpo.

O₂ 98% of sea level
Day 1 of 21

Fly to Nepalgunj - 150 m — Fly to Nepalgunj

Day 02 · Travel · 2,140 m

Fly to Juphal, trek to Dunai

One of Nepal's great mountain flights, then walk down to the district capital on the Thuli Bheri.

+1,990 m gained today
O₂ 77% of sea level
Day 2 of 21

Fly to Juphal, trek to Dunai - 2,140 m — Fly to Juphal, trek to Dunai

Day 03 · Trek · 2,687 m

Dunai to Chhepka

Follow the Suli Gad through walnut groves and riverside forest.

+547 m gained today
O₂ 72% of sea level
Day 3 of 21

Dunai to Chhepka - 2,687 m — Dunai to Chhepka

Day 04 · Trek · 3,000 m

Chhepka to Chunuwar

Pass the Amchi traditional medicine hospital where Himalayan healers still train.

+313 m gained today
O₂ 69% of sea level
Day 4 of 21

Chhepka to Chunuwar - 3,000 m — Chhepka to Chunuwar

Day 05 · Trek · 3,611 m

Chunuwar to Phoksundo Lake

Climb the ridge beside Nepal's highest waterfall, then the lake appears - a color you won't believe is real.

+611 m gained today
O₂ 64% of sea level
Day 5 of 21

Chunuwar to Phoksundo Lake - 3,611 m — Chunuwar to Phoksundo Lake

Day 06 · Acclimatization · 3,611 m

Rest at Phoksundo

Explore Ringmo village and the lakeside Bon monastery of Tshowa.

O₂ 64% of sea level
Day 6 of 21

Rest at Phoksundo - 3,611 m — Rest at Phoksundo

Day 07 · Trek · 3,630 m

Phoksundo to Sallaghari

Walk the legendary cliff trail cut into the rock above the lake's western shore.

+19 m gained today
O₂ 64% of sea level
Day 7 of 21

Phoksundo to Sallaghari - 3,630 m — Phoksundo to Sallaghari

Day 08 · Trek · 4,500 m

Sallaghari to Kang La base camp

Climb into the high glacial valley beneath the pass.

+870 m gained today
O₂ 57% of sea level
Day 8 of 21

Sallaghari to Kang La base camp - 4,500 m — Sallaghari to Kang La base camp

Day 09 · High point · 4,343 m

Cross the Kang La to Shey Gompa

Over the Kang La (5,360m) with Dhaulagiri and the Tibetan plateau behind you, down to the 'Crystal Monastery'.

O₂ 58% of sea level
Day 9 of 21

Cross the Kang La to Shey Gompa - 4,343 m — Cross the Kang La to Shey Gompa

Day 10 · Acclimatization · 4,343 m

Rest at Shey Gompa

Join pilgrims circling Crystal Mountain - the holiest peak in Dolpo.

O₂ 58% of sea level
Day 10 of 21

Rest at Shey Gompa - 4,343 m — Rest at Shey Gompa

Day 11 · Trek · 3,770 m

Shey to Saldang

Cross the Saldang La to Dolpo's largest village, strung along a ridge above golden barley fields.

O₂ 63% of sea level
Day 11 of 21

Shey to Saldang - 3,770 m — Shey to Saldang

Day 12 · Acclimatization · 3,770 m

Explore Saldang

Visit Yangjer Gompa, the richest monastery in the region, and take tea with village families.

O₂ 63% of sea level
Day 12 of 21

Explore Saldang - 3,770 m — Explore Saldang

Day 13 · Trek · 4,360 m

Saldang to Namgung

Walk the high trail past hermitage caves to the tiny settlement of Namgung.

+590 m gained today
O₂ 58% of sea level
Day 13 of 21

Saldang to Namgung - 4,360 m — Saldang to Namgung

Day 14 · High point · 4,080 m

Cross the Jeng La to Dho Tarap

Your second 5,000m pass (5,110m), descending into the fabled Tarap valley.

O₂ 60% of sea level
Day 14 of 21

Cross the Jeng La to Dho Tarap - 4,080 m — Cross the Jeng La to Dho Tarap

Day 15 · Acclimatization · 4,080 m

Rest in Dho Tarap

A full day among the chortens, monasteries and barley fields of one of Earth's highest permanent settlements.

O₂ 60% of sea level
Day 15 of 21

Rest in Dho Tarap - 4,080 m — Rest in Dho Tarap

Day 16 · Trek · 3,600 m

Dho Tarap to Tarap Khola gorge

Descend into one of the Himalaya's most dramatic gorges, camp on a ledge above the river.

O₂ 64% of sea level
Day 16 of 21

Dho Tarap to Tarap Khola gorge - 3,600 m — Dho Tarap to Tarap Khola gorge

Day 17 · Trek · 2,950 m

Gorge to Khanigaon

Canyon walls give way to forest as you lose altitude fast.

O₂ 70% of sea level
Day 17 of 21

Gorge to Khanigaon - 2,950 m — Gorge to Khanigaon

Day 18 · Trek · 2,537 m

Khanigaon to Tarakot

Reach the old fortress town that once taxed the salt caravans from Tibet.

O₂ 73% of sea level
Day 18 of 21

Khanigaon to Tarakot - 2,537 m — Khanigaon to Tarakot

Day 19 · Trek · 2,140 m

Tarakot to Dunai

Follow the Thuli Bheri back to Dunai's airstrip-side lodges.

O₂ 77% of sea level
Day 19 of 21

Tarakot to Dunai - 2,140 m — Tarakot to Dunai

Day 20 · Trek · 2,475 m

Dunai to Juphal

A short climb to the airstrip and a final camp above the clouds.

+335 m gained today
O₂ 74% of sea level
Day 20 of 21

Dunai to Juphal - 2,475 m — Dunai to Juphal

Day 21 · Travel · 1,400 m

Fly to Kathmandu via Nepalgunj

Two flights and a world away - back to Kathmandu.

O₂ 84% of sea level
Day 21 of 21

Fly to Kathmandu via Nepalgunj - 1,400 m — Fly to Kathmandu via Nepalgunj

Photos: Wikimedia Commons contributors · CC BY-SA

Elevation

How the days climb.

Hover the profile to see each day - conservative ascent, acclimatization built in.

The ledger

The climb, in numbers.

Everything about this route, derived from the itinerary - from the metres you gain to the oxygen you'll be breathing at the top.

21Days on the trail

4,500 mHigh point

5,275 mTotal climb

StrenuousDifficulty

2–8Group size

May–OctBest season

57%Oxygen at the top

Day 8High-point day

Thinner air, day by day.

Oxygen falls with altitude. You start at 98% of sea level and finish at 57% at the high point - which is why every ascent profile here is conservative, with rest days built in.